Capital Grille – Brickell – August and September 2010

Posted: 10/01/2011 in 2010 Restaurant Reviews, Detailed 2010

4.25 out of 5

Lunch

So we arrive, a party of two, for lunch on a Wednesday. I came here, in part, on my search for a giant gourmet burger the likes of which these well known steakhouses tend to provide. After a brief 10 minute wait, during which I observed the elegant old-world American décor with portraits and polished wooden finishes, we were brought past the enticing walk-in wine cellar and seated. We were then quickly greeted by our server, who would turn out to be magnificent through and through for the entire experience. I found this particularly pleasing considering that this is an upscale restaurant and I was in ripped jeans, sneakers, as well as a subpar, back-up, sleeveless, though button up and collar shirt. I have many times experienced condescending and conceited treatment in fancy restaurants when not dressed up in a suit and tie, which I do not do unless forced to for weddings. It is Miami after all and I can guarantee you, though with no citation or historical facts to prove it, that whoever invented the suit and tie look did not live in tropical weather such as the muggy Miami summer.

So as we sit and peruse the lunch menu we both immediately knew we were each getting the burger but, as we were there for a special occasion despite trying to save a bit by going for lunch we did splurge on appetizers, getting the fresh oysters on the half shell followed by Wagyu Beef Carpaccio and the “Wedge” salad. The oysters were above average in general but right up to part with that level of restaurant. The carpaccio of, as per usual, questionable “wagyu” beef was good with an arugula salad and thin slithers of a parmesan type cheese was okay, pretty standard. The wedge however was outstanding, with a perfect, not overwhelming bleu cheese dressing and applewood smoked bacon. It was large enough to share between two, and possibly a third person if we had brought one, and was the must have appetizer. I should note that we were boggled and salivating at each of about a dozen fried calamari appetizers that past our table non-stop throughout our meal. See the dinner review below for a follow up on that.

Our burgers soon arrived, perfectly medium-rare as we had insisted, and were simply amazing. It should be explained that the burgers at Capital Grille are made with chopped sirloin blended with smoked bacon and sweet onions. I was somewhat apprehensive, not being a fan of stuffed or overcomplicated burgers, but it seems the bacon and onions were really ground and literally “blended” into the patty, providing a delightful full flavor without any textural distractions making you realize it was not purely deliciously seasoned beef other than knowing so as per the menu and server’s descriptions. On the side were their parmesan white truffle oil fries or, as I would have to describe them, the awesome awesomeness awesome. They were hand cut, perfectly but, topped with just a minimal shred of real parmesan cheese, and doused with or rolled around in enough truffle oil to get you wondering what you were doing  your entire life without truffle oil fries but without being able to immediately realize, unless a foodie, that you were eating something with truffle flavor. I shall insist again: AWESOME! Overall I would definitely recommend going to this place for lunch and getting the burger or one of their other fancy sandwiches which cost a third of their steaks and at least come with a side of them addictive fries.

Dinner

So as we enjoyed our lunch and an immediate family member also had enjoyed Capital Grille in the past we returned for another special occasion (yes it is expensive enough that you go only on special occasions and if you are lucky to have someone else pay). It was a month later, to the date, but for dinner with a party of seven this time. As we had a reservation we were seated within about a minute or two of arriving. Interestingly enough, we were seated at the same exact table as two of had been a month earlier. Soon appeared our verbose server, who turned out to be an entertaining, prompt and efficient, and quite knowledgeable although briefly too wordy and involved joking around toward the end of the meal. The head of the table was provided the regular but extensive wine menu with the option for an even more ridiculous offering of wines in a separate hardcover book.  An observation by the wine connoisseur at the table was that it was very appropriate for such an upscale restaurant however also featured a more affordable wine or two in each type and section throughout the list.

The breadbasket and butter also were immediately present and with quite nice variety from a cracker like bread to one with seeds, another with raisins, and a savory and soft onion loaf (the two middle ones identified were by far the best with or without butter). We then ordered to servings each of the calamari appetizer as well as the lobster and crab cakes, all of which came quickly and were served around the table by the waiter and another gentleman. The calamari, breaded and pan fried with a bounty of hot cherry peppers and table-side squeeze of lemon, were perfectly cooked and provided a near perfect combination of the sweet and tender squid with a crunchy but light outside texture in contrast with the spicy and a bit tart cherry peppers. This combination of spice with calamari is becoming increasingly popular and rightfully so, it really does match sweet, savory, and spicy with good textures in the various restaurants in which I’ve encountered it. The lobster and crab cakes were quite small and expensive but upon cutting into them it was clear why. There were visible and easily identifiable pieces of crab and/or lobster claw with a very balanced breading/filler to mayo to meat ratio and cooked perfectly with a nice crust on each side. Our server took this opportunity, as in many occasions throughout the night, to give us a tutorial on how this was made. Every piece of anything edible from the appetizers was consumed.

Then, after an unnecessary wait in comparison to the time in between arrival and seating as well as drinks and appetizers, came the meats. I thoroughly enjoyed my tender and tasty dry aged sirloin, dry aged, and served au jus as did my partner, both cooked PERFECTLY medium rare. Another member of our party had the whole roasted chicken which was enough for arguably up to four individuals, and for a price less than 30 dollars providing a very affordable meal option in such an expensive restaurant, which was delicious with crispy skin and leftovers to feed him the following night for dinner. Two others had the fillet mignon ordered butterflied, one medium well and the other well done, however the latter coming as such with the former coming not butterflied and more towards medium. It should be noted and to no surprise however that the gentleman with the properly cut and cooked well done steak did not come close to finishing his while the other one kept whole and medium was devoured with a small piece donated to me much to my delight. Two others at the table went a bit more specialized as one ate the coffee crusted shallot and butted sauced bone-in steak Capital Grille is known for and the other had a chef’s selection of sliced fillet served with onions and mushrooms. The coffee rubbed meat was ordered well and cooked as such. I tried a piece and the sauce was delicious with the seasoning and sauce and surprisingly juicy meat despite the shameful order, or condemnation, to be well done. The sliced fillet was also well done and, as per the eater, quite good. Side dishes included the parmesan truffle fries described above from our lunch but now times two for the table to share, asparagus with an almost watery and tasteless hollandaise sauce I declared had to be a diet version, and Vidalia onion rings which were excellent.

Lastly came the shared desserts which were a chocolate and hazelnut cake which half the table including myself THOROUGHLY enjoyed with all its moistness and decadence as well as the coconut cream pie which left the ladies at the table, in particular, breathless and repeatedly declaring it the best part of the meal and the best such pie they have ever had. I really dislike coconut desserts and I too thought it was quite amazing. Aside from the bill that arrived and suddenly reminded most of what our social-economic place is in society despite years of education, hard work, and experience the night was a great success. We even had some leftovers despite an indulgent feasting effort on all our parts, which at least says something about decent portions making the prices somewhat, slightly, minimally, barely less painful. I did not hurt much as I did not pay nor did I have any guilt as for about three years I had been ordering the much more affordable chicken or other such dishes rather than steak at these special occasions. To give you an idea beyond my commentary, picture a touch more expensive than coral gables steakhouses but still a bit more affordable than their South Beach and other Brickell counterparts.

Overall Capital Grille provided mostly well above average food with only some items not completely up to par. It would have received a higher rating if those few technical issues with the meats did not occur as it was otherwise very good. The prices are expensive however chef’s suggestions allow a less pricy meal with smaller portions but sides included. There is a mammoth wine list with the menu but also the option of an entire other literal book of wines. This place is lovely and elegant in decor and ambiance as well as staff dress and food presentation. There is outstanding service with only some minor flaws and reservations are available. I repeat this would be great for a special occasion for dinner if you have that kind of loot (also part of the slightly the lower rating) as opposed to lunch which is much more reasonable. The restaurant is connected to a parking garage with complimentary valet parking. There are the typical smoke and mirrors of an upscale steakhouse but the food and service, again, are legitimate for the most part.

The Capita Grille
(786) 369-5621
444 Brickell Ave
Miami, FL 33131
www.thecapitalgrille.com

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